Category: Innovations & Ideas

Unless it’s a new build, when it comes to building an engine, it’s generally accepted as a bit of a messy job, with oil and grease covering most parts, especially when rebuilding an existing motor that’s been around the block a few times.

I wanted to rebuild the original engine for the LI150. I’ve had it in and out of the LI over the years and in different forms. It’s done thousands of miles and so it’s picked up a lot of grime. Rebuilding it this time, I wanted to build it with a clean start. It’s a good way to rebuild with no grit or dirt getting in between components, gaskets and seals.

The little I know about media blasting is vapour blasting is one of the least aggressive forms of blasting, especially for alloy engine casings and components.

I was in touch with Colin of Ultra Vapour Works in Newtownabbey. After a few message exchanges, I called up to his workshop. Colin talked me through the process and what to expect. Turnaround was a couple of days and I was delighted with the results. Colin also stated that various finish can be obtained on request.

You can contact Colin via Facebook Ultra Vapour Works Group business page here.

Below are the before and after pictures of the work carried out.

Anthony Tambs at Scootronics has just released a new CDI. This version is a high powered version with diagnostic LED’s.

It has two diagnostic LED’s that will indicate a fault. The red LED indicates the Pick Up is working and the green LED indicates voltage is working from the Low Tension Coil.

Also incorporated into the CDI is a voltage controlled boost circuit, which Anthony says “I’m making use of the unused negative half cycle of the low tension signal. The voltage boost circuit is stabilized to 320 volts. This should give you a power rating of just over 100 millijoules.”

Included is a Flexible HT lead, (which for me is one of the best ones I’ve used). When you’re bending it through the frame to the Spark Plug Cap there’s plenty of flexibility that will allow for movement. You need to get your own Spark Plug Cap. There are too many preferences out there for Anthony to cover.

I’ve never been able to get to grips with electrics, this CDI goes a long way to helping those like me, make the diagnosis of electrical faults easier.

One last note to add. Lunchtime today, I went into town on the Lambretta. when I rode away to come home, it was spluttering badly unable to ride it, I checked the CDI diagnostic LED’s and they both light up. So within an instant, I was able to dismiss the Pickup or LT Coil. I changed the plug and it ran fine for the ride back home.

Contact with Anthony Tambs can be made on his Scootronics page on Facebook on the link below.
Scootronics Facebook Page

You can also look up the relevant information on the CDI and other Lambretta related info on the Lambretta Tuning Group on FB from the link below.
Lambretta Tuning Page on Facebook

When building engines with longer conrods, you need packing plates. This sometimes means that when fitting the cylinder cowling, you can find it doesn’t fit properly and it will under stress, which can lead to them cracking from their connections leading to the air cooling being jeopardised.

To help combat this Darrell Taylor of Taylor Tuning has made spacers of different sizes.

In the pictures, you’ll see before and after where I have the 3mm packer fitted to my 230 engine. There’s a gap before fitting the spacer.

You can contact Darrell on his Taylor Tuning Facebook Page here.

Last year I fitted a toolbox under the rear side panel. (You can read about it here).

It carried a couple of bottles of oil and a couple of bits to France. When I got back one of the supports had snapped on the box, but it still held.

When I stripped the LI for an all-over service, I wanted to remove the battery from the legshield toolbox and move it to the back of the Lambretta. Dave Mayo May who has an FB page LamFab Scooter Fabrications. supplied his version of a battery tray for under the side panel.

It comes in Stainless Steel, in two parts. That means you don’t have to unbolt it from the frame strut to remove the tray for wheel changes etc. There’s a thumb screw that holds the tray to the support. (I used a bit of Loctite for added security). There’s also a Velcro strap and two Nyloc nuts & bolts, which bolt it to the rear frame strut.

You also get some sticky backed foam padding to absorb any rattle from the battery.

As with all these rear fitting trays. Always make sure there’s clearance from the rear hub.

It’s been fitted for a while now and there have been no issues at all.