Attended on my way back from France.
There’s many things about working on a Lambretta that make us question our sanity. Take fitting a bridge piece, a part of the Lambretta bodywork that’s removed and refitted, a lot. I used to think it would have been easier to dislocate my
fingers to fit it.
Things got easier some years ago when a Bridge Piece Fixing Kit came on the market. A great idea and welcomed by many, but it still meant drilling and riveting a bracket onto the frame.
SLUK have now produced a clip that saves all the bother of drilling and riveting. It’s so simple to use. No drilling, no prep work. Just push it on over the frame strut and that’s it. just sit the bridge piece in situ to make sure the clips are in the right place, move them if necessary and screw the bridge piece on.
The screws and clips are Stainless Steel and they’re very strong. Sticky did a test with a Torque Wrench to see which would give first. The screw or the clip. The screw thread gave way, leaving the clip thread in perfect condition to be used again without fear of getting a screw stuck.
You get 2 clips, 2 screws & two self adhesive rubber washers.
It fits all Series 1, 2 & 3 Models.
SLUK are taking pre-orders Here and will be posting these out on the 1st June.
When we head out on our Lambrettas, be it a Sunday blast up country roads or a
weekend rally. Free space is always a hard thing to find as we pack for almost every eventuality. Especially if it’s a European run.
Sometimes a legshield toolbox and the original Lambretta toolbox isn’t enough. When you’re running a tuned engine, you can get through a fair amount of 2 Stroke oil. So this alone can take up space that could be used for something like tools.
These toolboxes seem to have two names, Oil Carrier or Side Panel Toolbox.
For a while now a number of people have been making these toolboxes. Almost to the same specifications with fitting being almost identical.
Mine came from someone on Facebook who had them made by Resto Shack.
So, with the box itself, you get a bracket that attaches to the top left number plate screw. I have plastic number plate screws, so I swapped it over for a metal bolt. You get the screws for fixing the bracket to the box and the screws for fixing the box to the rear frame strut.
A couple of things to note. once you have the toolbox attached to the frame. you need to make sure there’s clearance from the hub. This can be achieved correctly by removing the rear shock absorber to check the gap from toolbox to hub. Secondly, it’s a snug fit so to maximise space and the box may touch the side panel. Mine does, but I do believe my panels are out of shape and although I’ve not heard this from anyone else, it is always worthwhile checking for clearance.
I’m always a bit nervous about my tyres. I’ve had a few punctures in the past with one blowout throwing me down the duel carriageway at approximately 60mph and with roads getting such heavy use and many hazards for the Scooterist, we need as much help as we can get. So nowadays I try to use the best inner tubes & tyres I can get my hands on. For inner tubes I’m using Maypol from Just Lambretta, which have the valve off set from the centre and the valve itself is at an angle that means it will clear the fork link bolt.
The tyres I’m using are Michelin City Grip Winter. According to Michelin It has a 62mph speed rating and have a fast warm up with grip for fresh or melting snow.
Lastly, I add Goop. I’ve used it for a number of years now and I’ve had no tyre or inner tube malfunctions or mishaps. I check the tyres regularly and they hold their pressure well.
Setting the timing isn’t rocket science but it can be a bit of a pain having to remove the flywheel to keep adjusting the stator plate to get the desired firing point at the correct degree interval.
I know I’m guilty in the past of messing about fiddling to set the stator and by the third or fourth time of removing the flywheel, I’ve said “That’s close enough” and I know others have too!
Now Anthony Tambs of Scootronics has made an external pick up. Which means adjusting the timing can be done without removing the flywheel.
Fitting is really easy. There’s a hole to drill and tap into the flywheel and 3 holes to drill into the Magneto Housing of which you tap a thread into two of. Then you swap the Pick up wire connection from the stator with the new one from the external pick up. Full easy to follow instructions are available from Anthony.
I’ve had the Lambretta out and about in the city and up the carriageway for prolonged spells and it’s not missing a beat. I’ve checked fitment and it’s on firm. Anthony suggests using Loctite to help keep the pick up in place which is common practice for many Lambretta fixings and I personally use it almost everywhere!
A point of reference. After I first fitted the pick up, I couldn’t start the engine. There was no spark. If you look in the photo below, you’ll see the gap which was too big. Anthony said it should be between 1 mm & 3 mm, but not any closer as you have to allow for slight movement of the flywheel. Move the flywheel by hand a couple of rotations just to check
Instructions are available from Anthony in PDF format.
- Anthony has made another external pick up available. The added version comes with built in 6 Degree linear retard.
- He has made a modification to the pick up bracket. These have the pick up fitting closer to the flywheel, just to give the trigger bracket some extra clearance from the flywheel cowling.
- The company name is now Scootronics
For further details contact; firstname.lastname@example.org Tel: 07971475134
SLUK have released number of scootering related products and one particular item I’ve been after for my LI was a Coast 2 Coast screen. Unfortunately these haven’t been made and so it was a case of going without as nearly every screen for the LI series 3 wasn’t something I was prepared to put on my Lambretta.
Now they’ve just released a screen for the Series 2 & Series 3 LI Lambrettas and it’s called the XL5. SLUK say that it was inspired by the original café racer Biemme screen from the 1960’s, but with improved changes.
It comes in three parts, plus the fixings and a Hi Torque Fastener, (just like a Jubilee Clip, but Hi Torque)! All you need to do is bolt the screen to the main part or fairing with the metal band that adds strength as well as adding to the look.
Fitting is easy and the best part of it is with the Hi Torque fastener, fixing and removing the screen to carry out any under the headset maintenance means there’s nothing to it. All you use to attach to the headlight is a socket or a screwdriver.
SLUK do make a few points to note regarding fitting. They suggest putting insulation tape, Gaffer tape or 3M tape over the fixing area to help give a good fixing for the
fastener and also serves to help protect your paintwork. This makes sense, because the inside of the XL5 screen that will grip the headlight rim is smooth as is most headlight rims.
It is pointed out that the screen may make contact with legshield beading and may need trimming. My screen didn’t touch my legshield beading, but I have a disc brake with a reservoir on the handlebar and so the edge of the main part of the screen needed trimming by a few millimetres. SLUK say the main part of the screen is made from tough ABS plastic but it was easy enough to trim down with just a file.
I’d like to add that this isn’t bad workmanship from SLUK. As a Lambretta owner fettling and adapting things to fit is a common occurrence. The standard Lambretta fit is hard thing to find and there’s nearly always an exception to standard with most Lambrettas out there.
Thirdly, the headset screws we sometimes use can have thick heads but SLUK supply thinner button head screws and make fitment of the screen better.
The last point of interest is with security of the fitting. SLUK say that the user can drill holes in the fastener so adding fixing points and making it harder to steal.
It comes in a choice of white, black, silver and carbon effect.
I am happy with the screen. Quality is good and I’m confident with the fixings. I’ve a GammaTech Speedo that stands a bit proud of the headset and I’m adding a Sat Nav shortly, so it goes to helping with the profile of my Lambretta.
One final point. This doesn’t mean I’m going Mod and spending weekends at B & Q. I won’t be adding a target sticker on the screen.
Two great ways to save an engine.
Last week I put the GoPro on to make a short video of Darrell Taylors Thumb Choke & GammaTechnology RTSE1000 Speedo in use and how it can quickly save a potential disaster.
If you watch the EGT temperature gauge on the top right of the speedo, it begins to rise above 600 C. So to bring the temperature down quicky, the thumb choke is pressed. With a standard Lambretta choke this is all but impossible.